Arbois, Les Nouvelles 2017

Philippe Chatillon spent 18 years as the estate manager at the revered Domaine de La Pinte in Arbois before setting out on his own in 2013. His journey began with a hillside plot of Savagnin in Passenans, soon expanding to include Melon à Queue Rouge, Pinot Noir, Trousseau, and Chardonnay. In a defining moment, he traded his original Savagnin parcel for another that was farmed exclusively under biodynamic principles—cementing his commitment to natural viticulture. Working entirely by hand, Philippe eschews chemical fertilizers in favor of biodynamic preparations. In the cellar, he relies on old oak barrels, spontaneous fermentations, and bottling without fining or filtration. He even experiments with bio-harmony, using sound vibrations from harps to enhance the wine’s balance—an unconventional but deeply considered approach. Now a cult figure in the world of Jura wines, Philippe Chatillon crafts bottles of remarkable precision, marked by piercing acidity and layered flavors of yellow plum, citrus, pineapple, and bay leaf. His 2014 vintage was originally destined to become a Vin Jaune, spending six years in barrel under a delicate veil of flor. Winemaking Detail: Hand harvested from 20 year old vines. Whole bunch press with fermentation on wild yeasts. Aged in used French oak with the second year sous voille. Unfiltered and unfined. No added sulphur at bottling.

Hand harvested from 20 year old vines. Whole bunch press with fermentation on wild yeasts. Aged in used French oak with the second year sous voille. Unfiltered and unfined. No added sulphur at bottling.

Fresh; bright; fino en rama nose with more white flowers; camomile; green pineapple and gentle; crisp iodine notes. The pallet is bright and tightly wound; immediately dry and a little tight; but opens up with a wash of acidity. More topical fruit follows; pineapple; yellow citrus; yuzu and bay leaf. The pallet fades gently to notes of curry and turmeric.

Comté, Light curry, Mushroom risotto

Jura, often considered one of the more intriguing and idiosyncratic wine regions of France, is as well know for it's ancient local varieties as it is for it's oxidative aging of wines under the flor. France's smallest wine region is equidistant from Burgundy and Switzerland and whilst it benefits from a continental climate, is lush and verdant. Soils are a mix of limestones, clay and marl. Whilst famed possibly more for its whites from Savagnin and Chardonnay - especially for its Vin Jaune aged under flor for 6 years minimum - its light, fragrant and spicy reds, from Trousseau, Plousard and Pinot Noir, are also made to a highest level.