During our travels through Beaujolais and Burgundy in the summer of 2023, we discovered Lionel Margotin and his micro-winery in Mâcon. Originally, Lionel and his family sold their grapes to local co-ops, but in 2019, he decided to keep some of the fruit to make his own wines—Domaine des Roches Novae was born.

He began with Pinot Noir, Gamay, Chardonnay, and Aligoté, planted on rich, red clay soils with a southwest-facing exposure. In 2021, he expanded with a tiny 0.15-hectare plot of Sauvignac and, more unusually, a small planting of Mâcon Syrah—an intriguing rarity in this part of Burgundy.

These are young, organic Burgundies still in the early stages of their journey. The Les Condemines Mâcon proves that well-crafted white Burgundies under £20 can still be found in lesser-known appellations. The Pinot Noir is bright, vibrant, and intense, hinting at the potential to evolve into something truly special. Meanwhile, the Burgundian Syrah—aged for 18 months in French oak—is fascinating not just for existing at all, but for offering something that Northern Rhône enthusiasts will find well worth exploring.